The Finger Lakes: A Historic and Sustainable Wine Gem in New York State

Located directly south of Lake Ontario in the heart of upstate New York, the Finger Lakes wine region is a picturesque and increasingly renowned destination for wine lovers. The Finger Lakes wine region boasts a rich history that dates back to the early 19th century (1829) when the first vines were planted. By 1900, the region had established over 50 wineries. However, it wasn’t until the 20th century, that the area truly began to flourish as a wine destination due to the rise of the farm winery movement and pioneers like Dr. Konstantin Frank. In 1982, the Finger Lakes AVA was established, followed by its two sub-AVA’s. Today, the region is home to almost 150 wineries that span some 11,000 acres of vineyards.  

The region is made up of 11 slender lakes that stretch across the area, offering unique terroirs. The climate, which is moderated by the deep, glacial lakes and the extremely diverse soil types, consisting of shale, gravel and clay, add complexity to the wines. This combination of climate, geography, and soil gives the wines a distinctive character, as the wines are often crisp, vibrant, and well-balanced, with distinct minerality. There is no question that Riesling is the titan, or principal white grape of the Finger Lakes, as nearly 1000 acres of Riesling are planted across the region and there are around 200 Riesling brands being produced. While the region is famous for its Rieslings, several other varietals are produced, including Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc (the principal red grape) and Pinot Noir. The region crafts lovely sparkling wines via the traditional method and it is also home to hybrids and native grapes.  

We recently had the pleasure of learning more about the region at the Finger Lakes Roadshow in NY, which was sponsored by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance. It presented a fabulous overview of the region, its three main wine trails (Cayuga Lake, Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake) and how it has been evolving since its pre-Prohibition foundations. Sustainability and innovative practices were highlighted as a growing focus and of prime importance in the Finger Lakes, with many wineries adopting environmentally friendly farming and winemaking practices. Organic and biodynamic vineyards are becoming more common, and the region has seen an increase in producers using natural winemaking techniques, such as minimal intervention, native yeast fermentation and utilizing renewable energy.

As wine-tasting, of course, was in order, thirteen Finger Lakes wineries were present to share their wines and represent the diversity of the region. The tasting involved four flights: Sparkling, Riesling, Dry Whites and Rose & Reds. Each winery presented their specific area of production, their winery and one of their wines. The flights were paired with delicious morsels from Twenty Three Grand. The flights provided a great overview of the region, the specific winery, its terroir and the wines. This was a great way to showcase the craft and diversity in the Finger Lakes territory. Although nearly 40 wines were being poured, here are some of my highlights: 

Buttonwood Grove Winery Riesling Pet-Nat 2021

Buttonwood Grove Winery’s Riesling Pet-Nat a natural sparkling wine made via the ancestral method, or where fermentation takes place in the bottle. This sparkling Riesling is bright and aromatic, with notes of fresh green apple, pear, and citrus zest.  The fermentation process contributes to a creamy texture with mineral undertones. Dry, clean, and zesty. This wine was my first pet-nat made from Riesling, so that also helped to make it very special! 10% ABV.

Wagner Vineyards Caywood East Vineyard Riesling 2022

A single-vineyard dry Riesling along the Seneca Lake Wine Trail. It was interesting to learn that Seneca Lake is the deepest and does not freeze. The lake winds help to preserve the acidity in the grapes produced in this area.  This Riesling is a nice representation of the Finger Lakes terroir, with its bright fruit, fresh acidity, and mineral-driven profile. This wine is versatile and lovely. 12.5% ABV.

Heron Hill Winery Dry Riesling 2022

Heron Hill Winery’s Dry Riesling is another great representation of the Finger Lakes region’s signature varietal, offering a balance of crisp acidity and complex flavors. This classic dry Riesling focuses on freshness, distinct minerality, and bright, vibrant fruit with a dry, refreshing profile. 12% ABV.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

This cab has subtle earthy tones, dark berry fruit and hints of tobacco.The tannins are firm, but well-integrated, giving the wine structure and aging potential. 13.5% ABV.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Grüner Veltliner 

This Grüner Veltliner is a unique and refined expression of this Austrian varietal grown in the cool climate of the Finger Lakes. Reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc, this lovely, well-structured wine is crisp and zesty with citrus notes of tart green fruit, along with white floral notes and a touch of wet stone, reflecting the vineyard’s terroir. 12% ABV 

Trestle Thirty One Chardonnay 2022 

It was quite interesting to learn about Trestle Thirty One, a boutique winery, which is owned by a woman. While not a huge fan of Chardonnay, this one was truly beautiful. As opposed to typical buttery Chardonnays, this one is fruit-forward, creamy and Burgundy-esq. It is a refined, fruit-driven Chardonnay with crisp acidity, delicate oak, and a focus on balance and purity of flavors. Lovely aromas of ripe peach and apricot hints of honeysuckle. The palate exudes green apple, pear, and citrus fruit with lively acidity and slate-like minerality. 13.5% ABV.

Trestle Thirty One Rosé 2022 

After tasting their Chardonnay, I had to taste more of these wines! Trestle Thirty One Rosé embodies a balance of elegance and freshness.  Bright red fruit flavors dominate,  especially strawberry, watermelon, and a touch of cranberry. This wine is crisp and refreshing with a delicate salinity that encourages you to keep sipping. 12.5% ABV.

Trestle Thirty One Cabernet Franc 2021

Ripe red fruit, violet and distinct green pepper, along with subtle hints of fresh herbs are characteristic and evident in this Cabernet Franc.This wine has bright acidity, fine, silky tannins and a clean, balanced finish. Trestle Thirty One’s Cabernet Franc has both immediate appeal and the capacity to evolve gracefully over time. 13% ABV. 

Sheldrake Point Winery Dry Rosé 2023

This rosé, crafted from 100% Cabernet Franc, offers a vibrant and refreshing expression of rosé, highlighting the region’s cool-climate elegance. Bright aromas of fresh strawberries, red cherries, and watermelon, with subtle notes of rose petals. The palate echoes the red berry flavor along with a little citrus. Refreshing acidity, crisp minerality and a long, dry finish.  It is not hard to see why this rosé is their flagship wine. 11% ABV.

Keuka Springs Vineyards Blaufränkisch

Keuka Spring Vineyards Blaufränkisch is a nice expression of this lesser-known varietal in the Finger Lakes region, offering a unique balance of spice, fruit, earthiness and acidity. This Blaufränkisch is versatile and elegant. It has a nose full of dark fruit, notes of black pepper, cloves, and dried herbs. The palate is smooth and velvety with blackberry, blackcurrant and licorice. This wine has good structure and would pair nicely with a black truffle ravioli. 12.4% ABV

The Finger Lakes Wine Alliance did a wonderful job showcasing their region. It is clear that the Finger Lakes is a pre-Prohibition Era wine region that continues to grow and evolve down to today. Its cool climate, unique terroirs, modern sustainability efforts and stunning landscapes solidifies its place on the map as a premier wine region in the U.S.