Discovering Unexpected Freshness with Cadgal Moscato d’Asti

When you think of Moscato d’Asti, you may think of a sweet white wine. However, there is much more to learn about this Italian white varietal. Cadgal Winery, located in the northern region of Piedmont and established in 1989, has a lot to share in this regard. The Wining Hour recently enjoyed a tasting with Alessandro Varagnolo, the winemaker and owner of Cadgal, who assumed leadership in 2023. During our informative discussion, he highlighted the new identity of Moscato d’Asti, as well as the versatility and aging potential of this grape varietal.  

The Cadgal Estate has two vineyard sites: Tenuta Valdivilla, in the hills of Santo Stefano Belbo, in the Langhe area and Tenuta La Cova in Calamandrana, the heart of Monferrato. The winery has 15 hectares of vineyards consisting of sandy, calcareous soil. This soil or sori, rich in marine sediment (limestone), is very conducive, as it gives their wines structure and complexity.  Cadgal is SQNPI certified and moving towards a conversion to organic farming. While they produce other varietals, the primary focus is Moscato Bianco. 

These wines are made from the Moscato Bianco grape, with each one offering a different expression. Moscato d’Asti is considered a low-alcohol, semi-sparkling wine, renowned for its floral aromas and luscious sweetness.The gentle fizz and refreshing sweetness of these Asti wines evoke a sense of festivity and celebration. Their bright, effervescent character elevates the mood, enhancing the joy and excitement of the celebration. 

The history of Cadgal is clearly an intertwined tale of family traditions and innovation. All of their labels are beautiful, but their new labels, all done by local artists and painters, reflect this tradition, as it depicts a rooster, which symbolizes “Cadgal,” or “House of the Rooster.”  Keeping with tradition, the winery also employs the use of grottos or underground ‘aging under the sand.’ Given the story behind these wines, I could not wait to pop those corks and see what was in store!

My Cadgal tasting began with two international varieties, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that are actually staples in the area. We learned that a Pinot Noir will soon be added to their lineup. 

​Cadgal Piemonte DOC Chardonnay 2023 is a white wine made from 100% Chardonnay In the glass, its traw-yellow color with bright golden reflections.​ On the nose are mature notes of banana and passion fruit, while the flavor profile reflects the wine’s aromatic maturity. ​Soft and well-balanced. ​This wine exemplifies the elegance and aromatic richness characteristic of top-tier Piedmontese Chardonnays. It is my kind of Chardonnay-not big and oaky, but fresh and clean. It is very drinkable, offering some complexity and great balance.

Cadgal Piemonte DOC Sauvignon 2023 is another lovely Piedmontese white wine, but this one is produced from Sauvignon Blanc grapes. ​It is straw yellow and very aromatic with hints of white fruit and herbs. This wine is clean, crisp, fresh and vibrant, with more herbal notes. Persistent finish. Both this wine and the Chardonnay are aged only in stainless steel and demonstrate minerality indicative of their sandy Monferrato soil.

Cadgal Barbera d’Asti “Mavi” 2023 is a vibrant red wine from 100% Barbera.​ Mavi is their first Barbera, and it is elegant with gentle tannins. Ruby red with distinct notes of wild strawberries and ripe cherries, complemented by subtle hints of white lilies. This Barbera is characterized by a harmonious combination of red and dark fruits with good acidity and freshness. 

Cadgal Moscato d’Asti “Lumine” 2023 is truly luminous! While Lumine is Cadgal’s traditional, entry-level moscato, it is their biggest in sales volume. This semi-sparkling sweet wine, produced with Moscato Bianco from 20-45 yr. old vines via the traditional method.  It is a wine that can be enjoyed by anyone at any time.  While it has the typical golden hue in the glass, it awakens the senses with a rather aromatic bouquet of notes of elderflower, green apple, peach, sage and rosemary. These notes echo on the palate, with flavors of white and yellow peach, apricot and pear. The delicate effervescence complements the wine’s balance and freshness. Lumine is clearly a go-to wine for a bright, playful and quintessential Moscato d’Asti.

Cadgal Canelli Moscato Sant’Ilario 2023 marks the first vintage around the Canelli DOCG area.  This is a sweet, semi-sparkling wine made from 100% Moscato Bianco di Canelli, which is one of the most prestigious crus in Piedmont. The grapes are sourced from mature vineyards averaging over 50+ years in age. The process calls for at least three years or 36 months in the bottle. While not underground, this wine evolves over time. Pale yellow and golden in appearance with an expansive and complex bouquet featuring fruity notes of apricot, orange blossom, white flowers and sage. The finish is long and elegant with delicate perlage. Ultimately, Sant’Illario strikes a silky balance, lively, but round. It is more refined with aromatic depth, excellent freshness and finesse. There is no question as to why this lovely Moscato earns the prestigious Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri. 

Cadgal Moscato d’Asti Vite Vecchia 2016

“Vite Vecchia” is a distinctive and complex semi-sparkling sweet wine, perhaps, more for the Moscato connoisseur. Crafted exclusively from 100% Moscato Bianco grapes sourced from 70+ year old vines from their Canelli vineyard plots. This wine also undergoes a very extended aging process. In fact, according to Alessandro, this wine is aged under the sand for at least 5 years, or 120 months. This fascinating method enhances the wine’s aromatic complexity, depth and rich flavor profile. Winemaker and owner Alessandro maintained that this process also facilitates longevity, allowing the wines to be aged more than 5 years. Quite remarkable!

This aged moscato is an intense straw yellow with golden flecks and stone fruit aromas. The palate balances the sweetness with fresh, bright acidity. Lively peach and apricot, along with hints of dried citrus peel, ginger, honey and even candied fruit, which reflect the wine’s maturity, yet offer a rich, matured sweetness. Creamy, layered and complex. The perlage is fine and persistent. Ultimately, this wine has mineral nuances and a savory character. While Vite Vecchia is still vibrant today, it is clear that “Vite Vecchia” is meant to be aged, as it continues to evolve and develop, becoming  more complex over time. 

Cadgal wines pair with a wide array of dishes, such as fruit, salads, pastries, soft and aged cheeses, spicy dishes and creamy desserts. Alessandro Varagnolo’s goal is to make “drinkable wines for every occasion…everyday wines that do not always need to be cellared.” He does exactly that with Cadgal wines, as they are rightfully known to be elegant and refined. Moreover, they all demonstrate a harmonious balance between sweetness and acidity. These wines are all approachable, affordable and widely available.

For more Asti, check out my feature of Cadgal Asti Spumante in Appetito Magazine.