#wine #winetasting,  Alto Adige

Cantina Bolzano: The Alpine Artistry of Wine in the Heart of Alto Adige

Amid the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites, Cantina Bolzano, also known as Kellerei Bozen (in German), stands as one of Alto Adige’s most dynamic cooperatives, blending centuries of viticultural tradition with modern precision. Established in 2001 through the merger of the historic Gries and Santa Maddalena cooperatives, the winery unites over 200 passionate growers who together cultivate a patchwork of vineyards across diverse altitudes and soils. The result: wines of exceptional clarity, elegance, and a true sense of place.

A Terroir of Contrasts

It can be said that this is a terroir where mountains meet the mediterranean. The vineyards of Cantina Bolzano are scattered across a dramatic landscape ranging from 200 to 1,000 meters above sea level, encompassing everything from the sun-drenched valley floor to breezy alpine slopes. This mosaic of elevations and exposures creates an extraordinary range of microclimates, which is the secret to their wines’ complexity. Porphyry (volcanic rock), limestone, and sandy soils impart depth and minerality, while the combination of cool nights and warm days ensures ideal ripening conditions. The outcome is wines with vibrant acidity, precise aromatics, and an unmistakable Alpine freshness.

“Making good wines is a craft, making great wines is an art.”

A #WiningHour with Cantina Bolzano

Cantina Bolzano’s diverse terroir facilitates the cultivation of 15 different grape varieties.  Their range highlights both indigenous varieties like Lagrein and Schiava (Vernatsch), and international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Nero, each expressing the nuances of its vineyard origin. 

We had the opportunity to participate in a virtual tasting with Matthias Messner, the Managing Director of the winery, to talk and taste some of their wines. Here’s what we tasted:

  • Kelleri Bozen Dellago Weissburgunder 2021 This Pinot Bianco, coming from their cooler, high-altitude vineyards, captures the crisp mountain minerality and aromatic finesse. It shows juicy orchard and stone fruit (white pear, golden apple), a refreshing acidity, and mineral clarity. The barrique component adds texture and complexity without overpowering.
  • Kelleri Bozen Mock Sauvignon 2023 is a Sauvignon Blanc cultivated in vineyards at 500 meters a.s.l with pronounced diurnal shifts. Mock demonstrates a great balance of fruit and crisp acidity, along with vegetal-herbal notes. The freshness and tension is in harmony. Mock shows the best of Alto Adige’s terroir: fresh, mineral, with expressive aromatics. 
  • Kelleri Bozen Hochkofler Riesling 2023 In Alto Adige, Riesling is usually fermented dry, without any residual sugar. This one was a beautiful example.  While I am not typically a fan of riesling, I loved this one! This wine is a graceful, refined Riesling that emphasizes freshness, clarity and elegance over showy richness. It balances stone fruit, citrus (peach, apricot) and floral aromas with a vital acidity and clean minerality. 

I hope to taste some more of their wines. Meanwhile, each bottle of Cantina Bolzano or Kellerai Bozen reflects the winery’s commitment to expressing terroir. The wines show how this volcanic foundation shapes wines that are both refined and expressive, with a distinct mineral tension that reflects the Alpine terroir. Every bottle speaks of precision and harmony, all hallmarks of Alto Adige winemaking. However, there’s more!

Innovation and Sustainability at the Forefront

In 2018, Cantina Bolzano unveiled its striking new winery—a masterpiece of sustainable architecture built into the hillside. Designed for energy efficiency and minimal environmental impact, it utilizes gravity-flow winemaking, solar power, and natural cooling systems. This modern facility embodies the cooperative’s forward-thinking approach while respecting the traditions that have defined the region for generations. Moreover, the winery’s sustainability efforts extend to the vineyards, where many members employ organic practices and biodiversity initiatives. 

Ultimately, Cantina Bolzano is not merely a winery. Instead, it’s a collective expression of Alto Adige’s culture, landscape, and people. Every grower contributes to a shared vision: to craft wines that tell the story of their region. Cantina Bolzano captures the soul of Sud Tyrol, where every glass reflects the pure essence of the Alps.

Planted, harvested and aged in NY. I have a background in education and marketing, with a love and passion for travel...and all things wine. In addition to writing about wine, I also maintain an online wine boutique (thewininghour.com) that caters to the winelover, as well as the weekly vinous winechat (#WiningHourChat) on Twitter (see page for more info).

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